Impressions from the big detour (by pilgrim Simon Wijma)
A week on the Walk of Wisdom
that footstep
that moment in time
liquefies
with a history in the country
And you, me
Then be quiet
The words gone
A dog is missing in Weurt. That can’t be missed, because everyone we meet questions us. ‘If you find it, you have to take it to the bakery’, says the sweetest little girl in Weurt. Just another Friday morning in a small village along the Waal. Didn’t see a bakery there. Not even a dog, by the way.
Ah, the Walk. What a variety of landscapes, impressions, people, shelter… And in the weather, of course. The pleasure with which Manja and Damiaan have searched for and plotted a route is evident. I think I know that with my 35 years of hiking experience through half of Europe. Of course, you can take advantage of those leafy forest avenues if you can avoid a busy stretch of road. To? What is Circumambulation? This is a 136 kilometer detour.
Hey Nadia, did you gain some wisdom today? We regularly ask each other on the road, in that beautiful long late summer week on the Walk. The somewhat unbelieving Flemish and the once Protestant Northerner, who meet each other halfway through their hometowns to taste that (Gelderland, Roman, Burgundian??) or universal wisdom.
What kind of wisdom do you gain along the way? Ah, I hardly worried for a week. I was able to experience again that you don’t always have to flee to that one great route abroad. That the Netherlands has so many surprises. That they brew beer in Grave and you don’t have to order 2 of them if you walk even further.
In a practical sense, I would say: take 9 or 10 days for it, consecutively. Average 17 km. per day and also a day of nothing on the road. You will need the booklet. If only because there is always a lot of bad young people somewhere who remove stickers. I would like a more frequent marking, I like to be able to walk without a ticket.
Is it a path of reflection, a spiritual path? Certainly, the quiet places, the history that is visible, the chapels… Much invites reflection. And partly I (we!) create that ourselves by walking in silence a lot; By sometimes reciting something, by meditative moments. Old trees in particular evoke those moments in me.
There is certainly contemplation because of the beautiful conversations along the way… fellow walkers, pilgrims, people where you spend the night. See, for example, the beautiful piece about Ryon, where we also stayed. It has just been posted on the website of the Walk.
People on the route who feel involved say: the Walk is becoming more and more famous. Beautiful. That involvement is what makes this run special. That you are really in people’s homes and can sit down for a delicious meal. Have great conversations. In doing so, I sometimes meet people who I would call ‘not quite my type’ in my daily living environment. And precisely because of that, you get special, pertinent questions that make you think. Or meet the woman of the new chapel halfway, who has just come to replenish candles, the proceeds of which go to the fight against cancer. I know what it is, she says, and her eyes tell a long story. People make the way.
And there are so many more presents on the way… the Ontmermberm, the patchwork tree, the beautiful old estates, the Kapelberg with its power place, the tree cathedrals… all together that makes the WoW so colorful.
I will always compare walking routes with the Camino, that goes without saying. I miss walking into a village without a plan, looking for the finest inn. Only if you bring a tent and ask for camping spots, you can do without a plan in our country. Furthermore, calling in advance is almost unavoidable. Just because of the budget, another thing. B&Bs are often too luxurious and pricey for me. But.. Planning places to sleep also gives anticipation. I think the Emmaus Monastery in Velp is a must on the route. It would be nice if a dormitory were built there, as is the plan. A beautiful place of contemplation with a nice atmosphere, ideal for a day longer. I certainly don’t miss the massiveness of the Camino. Every now and then you will meet other pilgrims. A greeting, sometimes a chat or taking a break together on the roadside.
And yes, then that Reichswald. What’s in a name? Endless rows of straight trunks? No way. But the excitement of whether or not to get lost… Yes, every road has its legends… the dark primeval forest… We walked there exclusively in the pouring rain. Past a surprised deer that doesn’t expect people. Let yourself be completely drenched in the forest. What an experience, especially because it coincided with our silent walk. And, there will always be a warm, dry inn.
We walked the Walk of Wisdom from 21-28 September 2018. Again next August.
Many thanks to the volunteer group who make all this beauty possible!
Simon Wijma
Simon published this article on his blog https://eensobereweg.blogspot.com/
Photos: Nadia Poulin