“I believe in simplicity, not uniformity” (pilgrim Francis Happe)
Jeroen van Zuylen visits special locations on the route of the Walk of Wisdom on behalf of our Walk of Wisdom. Places where people have felt at home, feel at home, and want to talk about it to their heart’s content. He does his first interview with Francis Happe, pilgrim, who felt pilgrimage attracted by the (former) Capuchin monastery in Velp near Grave. And now she works there.
Interview with Francis Happe by: Jeroen van Zuylen
For my conversation with Francis Happe, I cycle from Nijmegen to a monastery in the village of Velp near Grave. On the dike along the Meuse, I soon spot the Emmaus monastery on my left, idyllically hidden between the trees. A nice man lets me in. Francis and I take a seat in – very appropriately – the Franciscan room.
What motivated you to walk the Walk of Wisdom ?
‘Ten years ago, I had made up my mind: when I turn fifty, I want to treat myself to a nice walk or bike ride. But no ‘Santiago’, that route is far too massive for me. It wasn’t until shortly before my fiftieth birthday that I remembered my intention and discovered the Walk of Wisdom, a beautiful walking route and nice in the neighborhood. And so I started walking it in March of this year.
But I wanted to make something special out of it. So I decided that every day I wanted to walk with someone who once played a vital role in my life. Every day is different, great company. But then again, who do you choose? That turned out to be a beautiful and rewarding process. So many people who have crossed your path… For example, I walked the Walk of Wisdom with my very first boyfriend from 36 years ago, with someone from my student days, a brother-in-law, my sister and someone I recently met after moving from North Holland to Brabant a few years ago. It’s funny, I hadn’t seen that first boyfriend since I was fifteen, but I managed to trace him through Facebook.
And because I wanted to avoid clichés in the walking conversations with my company (‘How are you?’, ‘What are you doing these days?’), we had to bring a question for each other. This way you could think about our meeting in advance. These sometimes became very personal conversations. I discovered that the other people often remembered completely different things from our common past than I did, which is very strange.
Did you walk the route consecutively?
“Yes, in eight days. But always spend the night at home. That was the most convenient because my hiking buddies often came from far away and also had to go back home. So at the end of the day there was always a car ready to take us back.
You write in the report of your Walk of Wisdom: ‘Because walking in nature, you end up with its autonomy. It is what it is. It goes the way it goes. That puts the things we worry about into perspective.’ Does this say something about your character?
“If it rains all day, that’s fine with me too. We’ve been standing with our knees in the mud, laughing! Life comes as it comes. If you accept that, you won’t be unhappy easily.
When I left on March 7, more and more restaurants closed because of corona. So that was just picnicking on a tree stump on the way instead of resting comfortably inside with coffee and apple pie. You gradually discover: you don’t really need anything. And that gives me an intense sense of freedom.’
What were your best moments during your Walk of Wisdom?
‘Of course I thought the landscape was beautiful. The river landscape with its dikes reminded me of my life in water-rich North Holland. The Mookerhei is also beautiful, where we had a beautiful nature moment. To the left of the road it was sunny and dry, to the right it was raining and the area was covered by a dark cloud shadow. And then that ferry in the Ooijpolder that you have to operate yourself… Boy, what a strength it takes, you have to be at least two! Those are nice moments to meet people. Even though I was walking with company, we had plenty of spontaneous encounters along the way. Someone who prunes a tree and just starts telling about the history of the area, very special.
What struck me most: so many quiet places along the way… That silence was even more palpable during the lockdown period. No planes, less car traffic, nothing but the wind in your hair!
Only the end I didn’t like as much. You come back to a concrete world full of industry and ugliness. We therefore deliberately deviated from the route here by crossing the Waal and walking across the city island. And when we approached the end point, the Stevenkerk, I realized that it was over and I got homesick again for being on the road.’
And now we are here in the Emmaus Monastery, which is located on the Walk of Wisdom route. You didn’t know it before your walk. But now you’re working there! Tell!
‘I have a thing for churches, cemeteries, monasteries, libraries. Public places where peace and simplicity reign. So I was curious when we passed here. I rang the bell, I was allowed to come and have a look inside and take a tour of the monastery garden. When I was outside again, I knew: this is where I’ll be back!
Later, I saw a vacancy for an internal coordinator on their site. And that’s how I got in here. First as a volunteer and recently as a paid employee. I am very happy with that, I feel completely at home here. My job is that of connector, making sure that everything is properly coordinated. That the cook knows in time that he has to cook for 20 people. As quiet as it was here during the first lockdown, it was hectic with visitors in the summer. Especially because many Four Days Marches runners were looking for an alternative and ended up with us. Our starting point is, according to old monastic custom: we don’t just send anyone away. It was a bit of improvisation, but we managed to offer all guests a place to stay.
What makes this monastic setting so attractive to you?
‘I chose this place because people here want to preserve what was and is there. You feel that a monk has taken his steps here, as if he is still a little present here. If the original disappears, such a place loses its value. And I believe in simplicity, not uniformity. Here in the monastery, simplicity is the standard, just like when the monks still lived here. There is a sober breakfast, the rooms are simple. In all the hustle and bustle, this simplicity gives something extra. If that simplicity disappears, it would be a shame.
Both from the outside and from the inside you can taste the atmosphere of the authentic monastery here. It is well maintained. Brothers haven’t been around for a few years. The Capuchin [een tak van de Franciscaner Orde – JvZ] Order sold the monastery to a property developer, who has been renting it out to the Avant Spirit Foundation for a few years now. Together with many volunteers, she manages the complex and offers shelter to pilgrims, hikers and people who are looking for peace and quiet, for example to work on a book. Avant Spirit also facilitates meaning-giving programs for groups. Pilgrims often stay for one or two nights. For a multi-day stay, our driver even picks up pilgrims and brings them back to the point where they left off in the morning.’
You mentioned that you’re actually more of a cyclist than a hiker. Are you also looking for simplicity in cycling?
‘Once a year I want to take a break, for a moment of reflection: ‘How do I do it? Where do I want to go?’ In my experience, it’s easier to reflect in a place far away. But I also go for the special encounters.
I am one of the untrodden paths. I prefer to cycle in non-obvious countries such as Russia, Myanmar or Cuba. In advance, I only arrange the overnight stays after arrival and before departure, near the airport. Furthermore, I always find a place to sleep in people’s homes. People are so helpful. I always have faith that it will work out. And I get to know daily life up close.
In Cuba, I wanted to know how difficult it is for the church in this communist country. Then I visit churches and talk to people. I don’t speak a word of Spanish, but I often ‘arrange’ an interpreter: a taxi driver or someone through the embassy. For example, in Cuba I met an English conductor who was looking for musical talent (he even brought violins from home). Then such a talented Cuban received the invitation from him to further develop his talents abroad (England in this case). [Alleen op uitnodiging mogen Cubanen het land verlaten – JvZ]. And in Moscow I got talking to women in a Russian bathhouse, to whom I was later invited to my home. People could talk freely in bathhouses, because people are still bugged at home, a persistent legacy from the communist era. But even though I like to travel, I always like to come home.’
At the end of our conversation, Francis shows me around the monastery and the garden (the kale can be harvested!) and we take a look at the plague house where a plague-suffering monk could be quarantined – how topical!
We conclude with a peace meditation at the lake, Francis chooses a beautiful meditative text about ‘happiness’.
After this nice meeting with Francis, I cycle back to Nijmegen in a good mood over the bridge at Grave.
Eternal temporality
I like that one half-worn stone
Who, after centuries, has kept this beautiful building standing
My temporary hand strokes it again
The ancient tree attracts me
After centuries, that one seed has weathered all storms
My temporary existence is just a branch in the crown at the top
I am drawn to the sight of still waters in which all kinds of things live
After centuries of flowing, falling down a source of livelihood
Which blurs my temporary reflection
I am drawn by the swaying, breathing wind
After centuries of twisting and turning
puts me in the eye of the storm, where I find temporary rest
I am drawn to the warmth of the sun’s rays
After centuries, her touch has not diminished in power
I’ve made my temporary shadow longer than myself
I am drawn to the dark mossy earth
After centuries the place to enjoy in gentleness and gratitude
And where my temporality cleared up the eternal questions
Francis Happe
