Consider… the Walk of Wisdom: the start (report by pilgrim Simone Venderbosch, part 1 of 4)
Text & images: Simone Venderbosch
My Walk of Wisdom starts one morning in Nijmegen. At the time, the city was still visibly reeling from the Vierdaagsefeesten. There is a lot of cleaning going on and there are a lot of people busy. After a coffee on the terrace, the Stevenskerk is open and I can register as a pilgrim. In a quiet room, the man on duty takes all the time he needs to listen to why I’m going to walk, for how long, etc. What a friendly and nice man, and how nice to take a break before the start. On top of that, I also get a candle on the house. I then lit it in peace and wished myself a good trip. After a photo with the pilgrim in the church and a firm, sincere handshake from the man, the time has come. I am going.
In the Valkhof park I say goodbye to my husband and the dog. I wipe away a tear. So does the dog. At the bottom of the stairs I can still hear her squeaking. Moments later, the sound is silenced, my tears are dried and the journey begins for me. I immediately come to a beautiful part, the Waal beaches. There is not a single other soul walking. Prove them wrong… It will be about 40 degrees today.
Through the sweltering heat
When I arrive at the Bison Bay, I have almost finished my water and it runs in trickles along my back. Just a little more through the warm dry grass and then I’m already at restaurant Oortjeshekken. Just when I’ve dried up a bit, my sister arrives! How nice to chat and eat together. After a long break, we say goodbye. I strap on my backpack, step out of the lovely cool shade and head back into the sweltering heat. This is immediately followed by a stretch through grasslands, right in the sun. To ease the pain, I wet my towel and put it on the neck. That helps somewhat. Furthermore, I regularly stop for a sip of water along the way, grateful for every breath of wind.
After a few kilometers, Persingen finally comes into view. I still have to pass cows under live wire. That was quite a task. Backpack off, wet towel falls and sits under sand, book also falls, on bare knees under wire, fumbling to get bag back on, bag with water bottle is twisted around the hip belt and I step into a cow pat. Fortunately, there are only the cows who watch me relax and watch me struggle with the heat and my luggage.
In love with the campsite
I’m tired, warm and tears are high. Fortunately, the campsite is close by and there is shade. Never before have I looked so much in love and bliss at an old fridge, socket and a seat. And then my sister also comes with cool drinks! Oh, how unbelievably nice! I tend to lie down and do nothing. After feeling the stinging dry lawn, I decide to take action first. Then I set up the tent in peace (2 crooked pegs, the ground looks like concrete from the drought), I take a shower and do some laundry. Pompidom, it’s so quiet here that I almost walk naked to the tent to grab my toiletry bag. Almost, huh.
When I sit at my tent in the evening, it feels like I have won a huge victory today. I got the most out of myself and I crossed a line physically and mentally, but… The head is off. On the one hand, I can’t wait to embark on the adventure, but on the other hand, I also find it very exciting. What will this reflection bring me? When does being alone turn into loneliness? What do I do if the lonely feeling continues to dominate? I think this is my biggest fear. For now, however, I have to fight the hot weather first.
Foot spring or torture device?
When I hit the road again the next day, I soon arrive at the foot ferry of Persingen. Looks very idyllic, but merde, what an instrument of torture! It’s excruciatingly slow and it takes a lot of strength!
On the other side I have already lost so much fluid, that it is hard to drink! At Ubbergen it also goes up quite steeply. Bizarre how dry it is! I’ve walked this part before, but I didn’t know this landscape in yellow yet. After the first climbs, I wonder what I’m doing. I’m already soaking wet, my head and body are pounding like crazy, even though I’ve only been on the road for an hour. Here in the hills, I notice how heavy my backpack is. So I do this climb step by step: step up, break, next step, break. So intense, I really have to get used to this. Normally I try to keep up the pace, but that’s really not realistic right now!
A little further on, I sit down. Take a breather and reflect. I take the insects for granted and listen to the soothing grazing of the cows. Poor cows, what flies. I’ll have to do things differently, I can’t handle this. Especially not with all that sweating. Unbelievable, I’ve lost so much.
Further thanks to personal heat plan
The change will eventually come a little further down the line. I see two old ladies with identical ecru half-length trousers and straw hats. I think they’re sisters. They were so fit and happy that they gave me new energy. And I needed that. After the previous part of an hour I had already had the foot ferry, the high bridge over the road to Beek and some stairs and climbs. Soon I realize that I’m not going to keep this up all day. My pace has to slow down and the number of breaks has to go up. Then I switch back to a slow pace, with respect for my body.
My personal heat plan works wonders. Walking, drinking water, sitting, eating and taking everything slowly. Dry off, drink water and continue quietly. The warm weather teaches me another lesson. I just have to adapt. I listen to my body and take good care of myself. This also goes better and better for me when I take a break on terraces. I then make sure that I leave with cold water and, if necessary, a full phone. With a fresh mindset and adjusted pace, I can enjoy myself again. And there is a lot to enjoy here! The scenery is so beautiful!
Turning point after a week
After this start, there are some warm, but beautiful days through the Reichswald, to Groesbeek, there was a sweet, concerned neighbor, I was forced to shorten one of the walking days, because I felt sick, there was Beethoven in a B&B and sweltering heath. After a quiet Saturday, however, the familiar trials, fun and so many special moments and encounters follow, until I gratefully arrive on the 7th day in Grave, at the Emmaus Monastery.
The seventh day, a turning point in my walk. In my next report, you can read how I got into the rhythm and there was room for a different process. How walking became standing still.
Introducing:
My name is Simone Venderbosch. I love walking, on my own. I only walk marked routes and preferably those with a booklet. Hours, days, weekends or weeks. With or without a tent. Surrender, trust, freedom, peace, stillness, nature and the elements are central to me while walking. My stories describe the experiences I have, my fumbling, the difficult, embarrassing and euphoric moments. Contemplative one moment, with a grain of salt the next. Just the way I am.